Junko Tabei (1939–2016) was born in Miharu, a small town in Fukushima prefecture, north of Tokyo. An amazing mountaineer and lover of peaks, she founded the Ladies Climbing Club in 1969 and reached the summit of Everest on May 16, 1975, as leader of an all-women Japanese team. After Everest, Tabei devoted her adult life to climbing the world’s highest peaks, including the Seven Summits. In 1999 she received the Snow Leopard Award for completing the five 7000-metre-plus mountains in the former Soviet Union, and climbed the tallest mountains in more than 70 countries. To remain committed to her passion for climbing, Junko defied cultural expectations of motherhood and enjoyed a 49-year marriage to an incredibly supportive husband. They were a family of four: one daughter and one son. Deeply concerned about the degradation of Mount Everest, Junko established the Himalayan Adventure Trust of Japan in 1990, the Japanese version of Sir Edmund Hilary’s Himalayan Trust. She was also a published author of numerous mountaineering books. In 2000, at age 60, she completed her master's studies at Kyushu University in southern Japan, based on the refuse problem on Everest that results from overcrowding by climbers. Junko reached 7000 metres on Mt. Manaslu at age 66 (having been forced to retreat due to poor weather), and continued to climb even after being diagnosed with cancer in 2012. She celebrated the 40th anniversary of her Everest success with a hiking trip to Tengboche, Nepal, on the familiar route to Base Camp, in September 2015. The last summit Junko reached was Japan’s Mt. Fuji (3010 metres) in July 2016. The climb was in support of high school students affected by the 2011 Tohoku earthquake and tsunami that devastated the area. Junko Tabei passed away on October 20, 2016, and is survived by her beloved husband, Masanobu Tabei, daughter Noriko and son Shinya, as well as other relatives and countless friends.
Praise for Honouring High Places: The Mountain Life of Junko Tabei:
“Translated into English and compiled from several of Tabei’s
memoirs, Honouring High Places combines gripping accounts of
high-altitude danger with a fascinating glimpse into the writer’s
bold life.”
-Condé Nast Traveler “…[Honouring High Places] fleshes out a
portrait of a woman who defied gender stereotypes and dedicated her
life to the mountains…”
–Outside Magazine “The book provides a comprehensive reference to
Tabei’s climbing career, as well as numerous reflections and
insights, and entertaining stories with enjoyable glimpses of
Tabei’s world through her unique lens.”
–American Alpine Journal “Tabei, who died in 2016, encouraged other
women to become mountaineers, and founded the first women’s
climbing club in Japan in 1969 during a time when most climbing
clubs banned women.”
–Time Magazine “The publication of Honouring High Places in English
is not only significant because of Tabei’s successful ascents, but
also because of the in-depth look it gives us into the struggles
and possibilities of a climbing life: from confronting the
avalanche-prone alpine realm to planning expeditions as a parent,
to raising environmental awareness and trying to prevent further
ecological catastrophes.”
–Alpinist Magazine “…Rolfe created an exquisitely crafted book that
is a joy to read, not only because Tabei’s story is so compelling,
and her character so delightfully admirable, but also because
Rolfe’s writing and editing skills are so finely tuned.”
–Rocky Mountain Outlook “…Tabei’s strength of character triumphs in
the face of cultural biases, cancer, the 2011 Fukushima earthquake
and a lifetime of climbs. The result is a fascinating, moving,
inspiring and precious volume.”
–Aspects: The ACC Blog “The book’s charm lies in Tabei’s unassuming
but obviously driven nature, and its insights into how Japanese
society approaches mountaineering provides the reader with a
personal view of the climbing world beyond the Anglosphere.”
–Canadian Alpine Journal “A significant book that deserves a place
on your bookshelf.”
–Suburban Mountaineer “The story of a young woman who begins
climbing in Japanese Mountain Club culture in the 1960’s is a tale
worth reading in itself. From this complex and often tragic social
beginning Junko Tabei goes on to a rich life that manages to
include family, teaching and climbing all over the world well into
her late 70’s while supporting causes related to the value of a
life connected to nature and the mountains. It is a well named and
well put together piece of history.”
–Larry Stanier, 2018 Banff Mountain Book Competition Jury
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