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From the Ground Up


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Table of Contents

Preface ix Introduction xiii An Inventory of Ground Meats, Poultry, and Seafood xiii Fundamental Equipment for Home Grinding xx Practical Information and Tips xxiii Appetizers, Canapes, and Dips 1 Soups and Salads 49 Sandwiches and Turnovers 89 Patties, Balls, and Dumplings 129 Loaves, Croquettes, and Cakes 167 Pies, Quiches, and Souffles 207 Casseroles and Pastas 245 Hashes and Chilies 277 Stuffed Dishes and Forcemeats 303 Sausage 343 Sauces 381 Acknowledgments 395 Index 397

About the Author

James Villas was the food and wine editor of Town & Country magazine for 27 years, and his work has also appeared in Food & Wine , Saveur , Gourmet , Bon Appetit , the New York Times , and many other publications. He is the author of 16 cookbooks and books about food, four of which have been nominated for a James Beard Award and one of which has won the award. He is also the author of Pig: King of the Southern Table , The Bacon Cookbook , and The Glory of Southern Cooking .


As any homemaker knows, Villas, the former food and wine editor for Town & Country magazine, drives home the point that once a food substance is ground up, there is very little that cannot be done with it. Here is a sweeping survey of 200 recipes, covering the highs and lows of minced chicken, beef, pork, and seafood. Villas employs dips, loaves, patties, casseroles, and sausages to create a multicultural mosaic that includes everything from gefilte fish to Scottish deviled kidney spread, from Russian salmon croquettes to Cincinnati chili. Along the way, some lost history is also unearthed. It turns out that the original Coney Island dog was actually a bun filled with chopped frankfurter, pickle, eggs, bacon, and sauerkraut, and that a truly authentic croques monsieur calls for the ham to be coarsely ground. Each two-page recipe starts off with a brief paragraph in which the author conveys some historical notes or serving suggestions. This is followed by a succinct ingredients list, and then the preparation instructions, which rarely consist of more than four or five steps. Like a fine batch of hamburger, the book itself is of uniform simplicity and composition throughout. (Oct.) ( Publishers Weekly , June 2011)

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