Foreword vi
Introduction vii
PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1
Chapter 1 B ackground Information 3
Geography 3, Climate 3, History 4, Government 15,
Politics 15, Economy 18, People 19, Language 19,
Religion 20, Education 20, Culture 21, Festivals 24, Sport 26
Chapter 2 Natural History 29
Flora 29, Mammals 30, Reptiles, amphibians and
invertebrates 40, Birds 41, Marine life 47
Chapter 3 P ractical Information 51
When to visit 51, Highlights 52, Suggested itineraries 55,
Tour operators 56, Tourist information 60, Red tape 60,
Embassies and consulates 60, Getting there 61, Health 64,
Safety 77, Women travellers 78, Gay travellers 78,
Disabled travellers 78, Travelling with children 79, What
to take 79, Money 81, Budgeting 82, Getting around 83,
Accommodation 87, Eating and drinking 89, Public
holidays 91, Shopping 91, Arts and entertainment 92,
Media and communications 93, Business hours 95,
Responsible travel 95, Travelling positively 95
PART TWO THE GUIDE 99
Chapter 4 Georgetown 101
History 101, Getting there 102, Orientation 103, Getting
around 103, Where to stay 105, Where to eat and drink 109,
Entertainment and nightlife 114, Shopping 115, Other
practicalities 117, What to see and do 120
Chapter 5 Around Georgetown 127
South of Georgetown 127, Demerara: west bank 129,
Demerara: east bank 132, Demerara: west coast 133,
Demerara: east coast 134
Chapter 6 berbice 135
History 135, Getting there and away 137, New
Amsterdam 139, Corriverton 143, Corentyne River 146
Chapter 7 lower essequibo, Cuyuni and mazaruni rivers 151
Essequibo River 151, Parika 151, Bartica 156, Essequibo
River: east bank 160, Essequibo River: west bank 164,
Mazaruni River 169, Cuyuni River 173, Essequibo,
Mazaruni and Cuyuni river highlights 174
Chapter 8 essequibo and the Northwest 177
Essequibo 177, Th e Northwest 187
Chapter 9 Central rainforests 205
Getting there and away 205, Linden 208, Rockstone 215,
Pakaraima Mountains 217, Kaieteur National Park and
Kaieteur Falls 218, Orinduik Falls 222, Iwokrama 224
Chapter 10 the rupununi 239
Biodiversity 240, People 240, Tourism 240, Th e North
Rupununi 241, Lethem 277, South Rupununi 286
Appendix further information 295
index 301
Raised in Brooklyn, New York, Kirk Smock is a freelance writer who regularly contributes articles on Guyana for newspapers, magazines and websites.
'Going where others fear to read (or publish).' The Sunday Times 'I'm just back from a Sustainable Tourism Conference media trip to Guyana and thought you'd like to know that the Bradt guide to Guyana was very much praised throughout the trip. It was absolutely brilliant!' Carol Hay, Director of marketing UK & Europe, Caribbean Tourism Organisation
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