LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS vii
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS ix
INTRODUCTION 1
Eric C. Rath and Stephanie Assmann
PART 1 Early Modern Japan
1 Honzen Dining: The Poetry of Formal Meals in Late Medieval and
Early Modern Japan 19
ERIC C. RATH
2 "How to Eat the Ten Thousand Things": Table Manners in the Edo
Period 42
MICHAEL KINSKI
3. "Stones for the Belly": Kaiseki Cuisine for Tea during the Early
Edo Period 68
GARY SOKA CADWALLADER AND JOSEPH R. JUSTICE
4 Meat-eating in the Kojimachi District of Edo 92
AKIRA SHIMIZU
5 Wine-drinking Culture in Seventeeth-century Japan: The Role of
Dutch Merchants 108
JOJI NOZAWA
PART II Modern Japan
6 The History of Domestic Cookbooks in Modern
Japan 129
SHOKO HIGASHIYOTSU YANAGI
7 Imperial Cuisines in Taisho Foodways 145
BARAK KUSHNER
8 Beyond HUnger: Grocery Shopping, Cooking, and Eating in 1940s
Japan 166
KATARZYNA CWIERTKA AND MIHO YASUHARA
9 Ramen and U.S. Occupation Policy 186
GEORGE SOLT
10 Bento: Boxed Love, Eaten by the Eye 201
TOMOKO ONABE
PART III Contemporary Japan
11 Mountain Vegetables and the Politics of Local Flavor in
Japan 221
BRIDGET LOVE
12 Reinventing Culinary Heritage in Northern Japan: Slow Food and
Traditional Vegetables 243
STEPHANIE ASSMANN
13 Ramen Connoisseurs: Class, Gender, and the Internet
257
SATOMI FUKUTOMI
14 Irretrievably in Love with Japanese Cuisine 275
DAVID E. WELLS
CONTRIBUTORS 285
INDEX 289
List of Illustrations
1 A three-tray honezen meal from Ryori kondateshu
22
2 Snipe in (eggplant) jars from Shichi no zen jukyu kon no
maki 32
3 A supervisory housewife and a servant from Shiroto ryori nenju
sozai no shikata zen 135
4 An old housewife and two servants from Sozai ryori no
okeiko 137
5 A young housewife in a kitchen from Katei yoshoku
ryoriho 139
6 A housewife and maid discussing kitchen tasks from Renovating
Kitchens 151
7 Members of a neighborhood farm group preparing steamed
buns 222
8 Local female farmers work part-time at company
headquarters 230
9 A female farmers' group from Yuda's Makino district
232
10 The three basic types of Japanese knives 276
11 Cutting a carrot into a plum blossom 277
12 Peeling daikon 278
13 Tempura 283
The first English-language compilation of research on Japanese cooking and food culture
Eric C. Rath is an associate professor of history at the University of Kansas and the author of The Ethos of Noh: Actors and Their Act. Stephanie Assmann is a lecturer at Tohoku University, Sendai, Japan, and the author of Value Change and Social Stratification in Japan: Aspects of Women's Consumer Behaviour.
"A pathbreaking volume on Japanese culinary history with great depth and scope." Merry Isaacs White, author of Perfectly Japanese: Making Families in an Era of Upheaval "This groundbreaking collection of essays will be a boon to specialists, an inspiration to students, and a delight to anyone interested in Japanese food." Samuel Hideo Yamashita, author of Leaves from an Autumn of Emergencies: Selections from the Wartime Diaries of Ordinary Japanese
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