The Royal School of Needlework 6
Introduction 8
The history of bead embroidery 10
Materials 14
Framing up 25
STITCHES 28
Basic techniques 28
Counted thread beadwork 32
Counted thread stitches 34
Bead Embroidery 54
Bead Embroidery Stitches 56
Beaded Surface Embroidery 68
Surface embroidery stitches 70
Fringes 82
Edging and fringing stitches 84
Index 96
Shelley Cox was born and brought up in New Zealand. She trained as a Librarian before coming to England at the age of twenty-two. After several years of travelling, her lifelong interest in history and craft prompted a change of career and she was acceoted on to the RSN Apprenticeship scheme. Graduating at the top of her class, Shelley went on to work full time in the RSN Studio and as a teacher for three years. Now freelace, Shelley works both as a teacher and on commission for the RSN from her studio on the Kent/Sussex border. She teaches all over the UK and overseas to both groups and individuals.
The Royal School of Needlework produces a line of
instructional books for needlework called Essential Stitch
Guides, and I’ve reviewed most of them here on Needle ‘n Thread. So
far in the series, you can find Essential Stitch Guides for
Beadwork, Goldwork, Canvas Work (I haven’t reviewed this one
yet), Crewelwork, Stumpwork, Blackwork,
and Whitework. All the books are excellent little reference
books to have in your needlework library, and so far, they’re
building into a nice little Library Collection. I’m eager to see
what topic is next in the series! Just in time to add to your wish
list for Christmas, I thought I’d review their latest book today –
the RSN Essential Stitch Guide for Bead Embroidery, by Shelley
Cox. Right off the bat, I’ll just say it: This is
a great little instructional book! I am so glad I bought
it! Like all the stitch guides in the series, it’s bound with a
covered spiral binding, so that it lies flat on the table while
you’re learning from it. It’s a smallish book – a little
chunky-thick, but not a large format, so you can carry it around
with you from gig to gig quite easily. Just slide it in your
workbag – it won’t take up much room. Sounds strange to go into
detail on the size of the book, but I really appreciate the thought
that went into the design of the series. They are “essential stitch
guides” – they cover the basics, and they’re meant to be
instructive and usable, and I think the design of the books helps
accomplish this. Caution: There’s Very Pretty Stuff
in here. It will make you want to take up serious bead embroidery.
The book is not jam-packed with inspirational pieces, but the there
are quite a few notable, beautiful examples of bead embroidery in
it, and the one above is my Absolute Favorite. It’s a combination
of goldwork and beadwork and it is soooooo pretty!
But, like any good instructional book, there’s a lot more to it
than just “eye candy.” Candy’s nice, but you can’t really live on
it, you know! There’s a good introduction to the history of bead
embroidery. It doesn’t go into a lot of detail (I’m glad – that’s
not the purpose of the book), but it does give you just enough of
an overview to fit bead embroidery into context historically.
There’s a thorough section on materials, and in this
particular case, I appreciate the thoroughness of this materials
section. When you start to incorporate other “things” into
stitching, it’s nice to know all about those things.
So we get to learn all about beads! Different types of beads are
defined and illustrated, there’s discussion about shapes, sizes,
methods of sewing on, and so forth. We also get to
learn about other embellishments that often accompany beads in
embroidery – sequins, gemstones, and found objects, like buttons
and so forth. There’s a nice section on threads, with
clear discussion on what threads work best and how they should be
treated, what lengths to cut – all kinds of little tips relating to
the threads used in bead embroidery. And then there
are all the other little tools and items that are useful for
embroidery, and more specifically, bead embroidery.
And then… we get to the meat o’ the matter: the stitches. It is a
stitch guide, after all! The essential stitches for bead embroidery
are broken down into four categories: counted thread beadwork, bead
embroidery (the basic stitches for attaching beads to fabric),
surface embroidery stitches (the decorative stitches of embroidery,
only worked with beads, too), and fringing and edging stitches.
The author starts with the basics: how to thread a
needle, how to start and end threads in bead embroidery…
… how to pick up beads and sequins… … and then
she moves into the stitch guides, starting with counted thread. All
the instructions are illustrated with step-by-step photos or
diagrams, and photos of the finished technique. Of
all the RSN Essential Stitch Guides so far, I think this one is the
clearest when it comes to organized instruction in specific
techniques. Moving on to bead embroidery, we get
instructions on the basic stitches and techniques for connecting
beads to fabric in different ways. For example, we
learn how to make a circlet of beads, how to sew on lines of
sequins, how to sew on lines of sequins and beads combined, and so
forth. Then we move into surface embroidery stitches.
Here, we can clearly see, with diagrams, how the surface embroidery
stitches are worked. Then, with pictures, the author illustrates
who to incorporate beads into those surface stitches. The thread
and the decoration created by the stitch shape are integral here,
and the beads are “accents” in addition to embroidery stitch.
The last section is how to create edgings and fringes
with beads. This section is very clearly illustrated with diagrams
and photo examples. The techniques progress from simple edges…
…to complex, deep beaded fringe. And the book ends
with an index, for easy topic location. The RSN Essential
Stitch Guide: Beadwork Embroidery is a terrific little
reference book for anyone who has considered incorporating beads
into their embroidery, counted thread, or canvas work. Whether you
are considering taking up full-fledged beadwork (it will get you
into it with the basics), or simply interested in using beads as
accents in other needlework, or looking for creative ways to edge
and trim projects – this book is for you!
*Mary Corbet's Needle 'n' Thread*
Apr 14 Have you amassed a coveted collection of beads but are at a
loss how to make the best use of them? If so, you need to arm
yourself with a copy of [this book]. As well as a sound and
thorough grounding in techniques and stitches, the book will also
provide you with inspiration and ideas to incorporate more beads in
your embroideries. There is a gallery of counted thread and
canvaswork stitches that are all enhanced with different types of
beads as well as surface embroidery stitches that create some
remarkable effects. Shelley also covers how to create luxurious and
shimmering bead fringes. As with the entire series of books, it
includes plenty of tips and methods of working that come straight
from workrooms of the Royal School of Needlework.
*NEW STITCHES*
June 14 Cox, a graduate of England’s prestigious Royal School of
Needlework, explores bead embroidery techniques in this stitch
guide. After providing an overview of bead embroidery history,
supplies, and preparation, Cox demonstrates common stitches used
for counted thread, bead embroidery (embroidery where the thread is
fully covered with beads), and surface embroidery (bead embroidery
where the thread is a component of the design). The counted thread
designs comprise the bulk of the book and include a number of
common needlepoint stitches embellished with seed and bugle beads.
Each stitch features step-by-step directions with close-up
photographs of each stage, allowing stitchers to follow the needle
path easily. There are no projects here, but plenty of finished
objects serve as inspiration. VERDICT Like the other books in this
series, Bead Embroidery helps to preserve an old-fashioned handwork
technique by presenting it in a manner that appeals to contemporary
stitchers. This topic is growing in popularity, and Cox’s title
works well with Yasuko Endo’s Bead Embroidery Stitch Samples, which
focuses on surface embroidery incorporating beads.
*Library Journal, USA*
Nov 13 Part of the wonderful Royal School of Needlework Essential
Stitch Guides, this book focusses on bead embroidery. It includes a
brief history, basic techniques, counted thread embroidery, bead
embroidery, surface embroidery and fringes. The book is illustrated
with fine examples of work, many from the author’s private
collection. It details everything you need to know with step by
step instructions and photographs of techniques that make it all so
much easier. Stitches are included with instructions, a good-sized
clear photograph and a chart. It is suitable for those needing to
learn basic beading. Recommended.
*Karen Platt Yarnsandfabrics.co.uk/crafts*
Spring/Summer 2014 One of the great things about this book is that
it is spiral bound. This makes following the instructions so much
easier. It has a brief history of bead embroidery and a chapter on
materials, divided into sections on fabrics to embroider onto,
types of beads ad their uses, threads, needles and other equipment.
It deals briefly but concisely with these elements, leading on to
basic techniques. This is not a project book. Most of the book is
devoted to explaining how to do each stitch, and at the end of each
stitch section there is a beautiful photograph of what a section of
that stitch looks like when completed. The book finishes with a
variety of edge stitches including ten different fringes. The book
doesn't show how to completely cover a surface with beads, but how
to incorporate beads into traditional and contemporary embroidery.
Near the beginning of the book, there is a stunning full page
photograph of bead embroidery combined with goldwork. Each stitch
is explained using lots of clear step by step photos and diagrams
and is very easy to understand. There are a few photographs of
finished items, but I would like to have seen some 'gallery' pieces
at the end to inspire the reader ad show how the stitches could be
combined.
*The Bead Society of Great Britian*
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