About the Author

Jimmy Metyko became an integral player in California’s nascent professional surf scene, while attending Santa Barbara’s Brooks Institute of Photography in the 1980’s. His work has appeared in Surfer, Surfing, Breakout and The Surfer’s Journal. Jamie Brisick is a Fulbright fellow and former professional surfer. His writing has appeared in The Surfer’s Journal, The New Yorker, The New York Times, and The Guardian. Sam George is the former editor-in-chief at SURFER Magazine and 2014 Emmy Award winning documentary director (Hawaiian: The Legend of Eddie Aikau). He is acknowledged as one of the sport’s leading authorities.