Table of Contents

Preface
1: The New Competitive Advantage in Apparel
2: The Past as Prologue: Historical Background on the U.S. Retail, Apparel, and Textile Industries
3: The Retail Revolution: Traditional Versus Lean Retailing
4: The Building Blocks of Lean Retailing
5: The Impact of Lean Retailing
6: Inventory Management for the Retailer: Demand Forecasting and Stocking Decisions
7: Inventory Management for the Manufacturer: Production Planning and Optimal Sourcing Decisions
8: Apparel Operations: Getting Ready to Sew
9: Apparel Operations: Assembly and the Sewing Room
10: Human Resources in Apparel
11: Textile Operations: Spinning, Weaving, and Finishing Cloth
12: The Economic Viability of Textiles: A Tale of Multiple Channels
13: The Global Marketplace
14: Suppliers in a Lean World: Firm and Industry Performance in an Integrated Channel
15: Information-Integrated Channels: Public Policy Implications and Future Directions
Appendix A: List of Acronyms
Appendix B; The HCTAR Survey
Appendix C: Data Sources
Appendix D: Companies Visited or Interviewed by HCTAR
Notes
Subject Index
Name Index
Business Index

About the Author

Frederick H. Abernathy joined John T. Dunlop in a 1979 study of the Tailored Clothing Industry which led to the establishment of the Textile and Clothing Technology Corporation ([TC]2). His continued involvement with the apparel industry led the Alfred P. Sloan Foundation to support the research resulting in this book. He is Abbott and James Lawrence Professor of Engineering, and Gordon McKay Professor of Mechanical Engineering at Harvard
University. John T. Dunlop has had an extensive career in labor relations and government including serving as U.S. Secretary of Labor from 1975-1976 and more recently chair of President Clinton's Commission on Worker-Management
Relations. He has also served as a mediator and arbitrator in a wide range of industries and is the author of more than ten books on labor relations and labor economics. He is Lamont University Professor, Emeritus at Harvard University. Janice H. Hammond investigates how manufacturing and logistics systems develop the speed and flexibility to respond quickly and efficiently to changing customer demand--critical capabilities in the retail-apparel-textile channel. She is the UPS
Foundation Professor of Business Logistics at the Harvard Business School. David Weil has written widely on the impact of technology and human resource policy on business performance based in part on his studies of the
retail-apparel-textile industries. His research spans the areas of labor market policy, industrial and labor relations, occupational safety and health, and regulatory policy. He is Associate Professor of Economics at Boston University School of Management.

Reviews

Advance praise for A Stitch in Time:
"A Stitch in Time is excellent reading for those in the Apparel Industry, whether they are in the retail, garment manufacturing or textile segments, who are interested in improving profitability through lower inventories, shorter lead times, less close-outs, and in general making better decisions on fashion merchandise." --Bernard A. Levanthal, Chairman and CEO, Textile/Clothing Technology Corporation, previous Vice Chairman, Burlington Industries, Inc.
"Highlights the Retail Revolution in Apparel Textile industries and demonstrates how informative technology not only benefits the retailer, but also the apparel and textile manufacturers. It provides all the parties with a response in meeting the short time frame in partnership, from ordering a product to its delivery for sale, and how to handle the completed product in their facility....The book is most informative with regard to how the apparel and textile
industries operated one hundred percent of the time before, and what needs to be accomplished and what is being done now with the retail revolution for certain products by retailers, apparel and textile
manufacturers which assists all of the parties an enhanced doemstic manufacturing and employment. It also serves as a basis for other industries to deal with the retail revolution." --Jack Sheinkman, Vice Chair, Vice Chair, Amalgamated Bank of New York and President Emeritus, Amalgamated Clothing and Textile Workers Union (UNITE!)
"As this book chronicles, since its beginnings in 1790, the US textile and apparel industry has been a bellwether for a whole host of issues, ranging from early adoption of automation in textiles to experiments in labor relations. And now there are lessons to be learned as this industry strives to exploit information technology to integrate a network of raw material suppliers, manufacturers and retailers working together to flow the right product to the right
place at the right time. This excellent book carefully describes these changes and the impact they are having in a way that vividly exposes those lessons for all of us. This is an important book that
should be read by anyone in any industry that wants to create an information-integrated channel."--Marshall Fisher, Steven J. Heyman Professor of Service and Operations Management, Wharton Business School, `niversity of Pennsylvania
"A Stitch in Time has broader significance than its title suggests. By focusing on the flow of materials and processes involved in the `retail-apparel-textiles channel,' it documents and analyzes the transformation of the institutions and practices of production and mass ditribution of the Industrial Age made possible by the railroad and telegraph over a century ago into those of today's Information Age made possible since the 1960s by the new
electronic technologies. This pioneering study is one of the very first to enhance our understanding of the multi-faceted implications of the evolution of industry worldwide from the Industrial Age to the Information
Age."--Alfred Chandler, Isidor Straus Professor of Business History, Emeritus, Harvard Business School
"A Stitch in Time is excellent reading for those in the Apparel Industry, whether they are in the retail, garment manufacturing or textile segments, who are interested in improving profitability through lower inventories, shorter lead times, less close-outs, and in general making better decisions on fashion merchandise." --Bernard A. Levanthal, Chairman and CEO, Textile/Clothing Technology Corporation, previous Vice Chairman, Burlington Industries, Inc.
"Highlights the Retail Revolution in Apparel Textile industries and demonstrates how informative technology not only benefits the retailer, but also the apparel and textile manufacturers. It provides all the parties with a response in meeting the short time frame in partnership, from ordering a product to its delivery for sale, and how to handle the completed product in their facility....The book is most informative with regard to how the apparel and textile
industries operated one hundred percent of the time before, and what needs to be accomplished and what is being done now with the reatil revolution for certain products by retailers, apparel and textile
manufacturers which assists all of the parties an enhances doemstic manufacturing and employment. It also serves as a basis for other industries to deal with the reatil revolution." --Jack Sheinkman, Vice Chair, ABNY and Preident Emeritus, ACTWU
"As this book chronicles, since its beginnings in 1790, the US textile and apparel industry has been a bellwether on a whole host of issues, ranging from early adoption of automation in textiles to experiments in labor relations. And now there are lessons to be learned as this industry strives to exploit information technology to integrate a network of raw material suppliers, manufacturers and retailers working together to flow the right product to the right
place at the right time. This excellent book carefully describes these changes and the impact they are having in a way that vividly exposes those lessons for all o of us. This is an important book
that should be read by anyone in any industry that wants to create an information-integrated channel."--Marshall Fisher, Wharton School, University of Pennsylvania
"A Stitch in Time has broader significance than its title suggests. By focusing on the flow of materials and processes involved in the `retail-apparel-textiles channel,' it documents, and analyzes the transformation of the institutions and practices of production and mass distribution of the Industrial Age made possible by the railroad and telegraph over a century ago into those of today's Information Age made possible since the 1960s by the new
electronic technologies. This pioneering study is one of the very first to enhance our understanding of the multi-faceted implications of the evolution of industry worldwide from the Industrial Age to the Information
Age."--Alfred Chandler, Harvard Business School
"Does a great job of capturing the truly revolutionary changes in our industry over the past ten years. There is no question that `lean retailers' have a significant competitive advantage as we head into the new millennium. This book is well worth reading for anyone with an interest in the general merchandise `pipeline'."--Tom Cole, Chairman and CEO, Federated Logistics & Operations, Federated Department Stores
"An excellent, comprehensive exposition of the transformation that is taking place in the apparel business--from design through the sale of the end product to the ultimate consumer. It chronicles not only the business implications of the transformation but also its impact on the economy and labor markets nationally and internationally. It is essential readign for insights into future related developments in the apparel industry, and comparable changes in other
sectors of business."--Walter Salmon, Harvard Business School