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Surf Science


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Table of Contents

1) Introduction; 2) Large-scale Air Movements; 3) Formation of a Depression; 4) Growth of Waves on the Ocean; 5) Propagation of Free-travelling Swell; 6) Waves in Shallow Water; 7) Wave-breaking; 8) The Temperature of the Water; 9) Local Winds on the Coast; 10) The Tides; 11) Rips; 12) Forecasting 1: Basics; 13) Forecasting 2: Inside the Black Box; 14) Forecasting 3: Surfing in the Storm; Further Reading; Glossary-Index; Acknowledgements

About the Author

Tony Butt has a PhD in Phys-ical Ocean-o-graphy and worked with the Coastal Pro-cesses Research Group at Plymouth University for some ten years. He is the author of The Surfer's Guide to Waves, Coasts and Climates, and has written many articles on the science of surfing and the coastal environment, including a regular oceanography column in The Surfer's Path magazine. He is a big-wave surfer and lives for most of the year in a forgotten corner of north-west Spain.

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