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Surf Science

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Table of Contents

1) Introduction; 2) Large-scale Air Movements; 3) Formation of a Depression; 4) Growth of Waves on the Ocean; 5) Propagation of Free-travelling Swell; 6) Waves in Shallow Water; 7) Wave-breaking; 8) The Temperature of the Water; 9) Local Winds on the Coast; 10) The Tides; 11) Rips; 12) Forecasting 1: Basics; 13) Forecasting 2: Inside the Black Box; 14) Forecasting 3: Surfing in the Storm; Further Reading; Glossary-Index; Acknowledgements

About the Author

Tony Butt has a PhD in Physical Oceanography, and worked with the Coastal Processes Research Group at Plymouth University for some ten years. He is a big-wave surfer and lives for most of the year in north-west Spain. He is the author of The Surfer's Guide to Waves, Coasts and Climates, and has written many articles on the science of surfing and the coastal environment.

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