Contents Introduction Chapter One: Repurposed and Recycled Clothing and Textiles - Colleen Hill Secondhand Clothing: A Brief History Repurposed Clothing Eighteenth-Century Materials Nineteenth-Century Materials Twentieth-Century Materials Recycled Textiles Conclusion At a Glance: Vintage Clothing At a Glance: Make Do and Mend Chapter Two: Quality of Craftsmanship - Colleen Hill The Eighteenth Century Technological Advancements The Nineteenth Century The Jacquard Loom Dressmaking Techniques The Sewing Machine The Twentieth Century World War II and the Golden Age of Couture The 1960s and `Disposable' Fashion Contemporary Fashion Conclusion At a Glance: Fast Fashion Chapter Three: Material Origins - Colleen Hill Natural Fibers Cotton Wool Hemp Manmade Fibers Rayon Bamboo Lyocell Synthetic Fibers Nylon Polyester Conclusion At a Glance: `Futuristic' Materials of the Past Chapter Four: Textile Dyeing - Jennifer Farley Gordon Introduction Synthetic Dyes Poisoning People Poisoning the Environment Past Meets Present in the Search for Solutions Conclusion At a Glance: Lowering the Impact of Dyeing Processes At a Glance: Indigo At a Glance: Greenpeace Chapter Five: Labor Practices - Jennifer Farley Gordon Introduction Textile Mills Garment Factories Unionization History Repeating: The Resurgence of Sweatshops, Subcontracting, and the ` Runaway Shop' Awareness and Action: Combating Poor Labor Practices Conclusion At a Glance: Madeleine Vionnet, Elizabeth Hawes, and Max Meyer: Historical Perspectives on Labor Practices At a Glance: Labels: Advocacy and Awareness Chapter Six: Treatment of Animals - Jennifer Farley Gordon Introduction Nineteenth-century Feather Debate Fur in the Nineteenth and Early Twentieth Centuries Fur Trapping Fur Farming Rise of the Anti-Fur Movement Sustainable Alternatives Conclusion At a Glance: Tortoiseshell, Ivory, and Reptile Skins At a Glance: Faux Furs Conclusion Glossary
The first comprehensive study of the history of sustainable fashion design.
Jennifer Farley Gordon is a PhD student in the Apparel, Merchandising, and Design program at Iowa State University, and serves as a graduate research assistant in the Textiles and Clothing Museum. From 2008 until 2013, she was an assistant curator at The Museum at FIT, New York City, USA. Colleen Hill is Associate Curator of Accessories at The Museum at FIT, New York City, USA.
The book is aimed at fashion students - its layout, photographs and pitch make it a successful academic text. It is a springboard from which they are invited to delve deeper into the subject. -- Hayley Mildren * Resource * The book succeeds in bringing together many of the themes and ideas around ethical fashion. * Costume *